Make the buffalo sauce: melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a small saucepan over low heat (or microwave to melt), then stir in 1/4 cup hot sauce (such as Frank’s Buffalo Sauce) and whisk until smooth. Keep warm and set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together 1/4 cup cornstarch, 1/4 cup all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder, and 1/2 teaspoon onion powder.

Add 1/3 cup milk and 2 teaspoons hot sauce (such as Frank’s Buffalo Sauce) to the dry mixture and whisk until completely smooth. The batter should be the consistency of pancake batter.

Add the cauliflower florets (1 head, cut into 1 to 1½-inch pieces) to the bowl and toss until each floret is evenly and lightly coated with batter.

Pour about 1/8 inch of vegetable oil into a large nonstick or cast-iron skillet and heat over medium-high until the oil is hot and shimmering.

Line a plate with a few layers of paper towels and set it next to the stove for draining.

Working in a single layer and in two or three batches (do not crowd the pan), carefully add coated cauliflower to the hot oil. Cook 5 to 7 minutes per batch, turning the florets every couple of minutes and rotating pieces so they brown and crisp on as many surfaces as possible. Adjust heat as needed to prevent burning and add more oil between batches if necessary.

Transfer cooked cauliflower from the skillet to the paper towel–lined plate to drain. Repeat with remaining batter-coated florets.

Transfer all cooked cauliflower to a serving platter and drizzle with the warm buffalo sauce from step 1, or serve the sauce on the side to keep the cauliflower crisp. Serve immediately with ranch or blue cheese dressing, if desired.