Place the rinsed and drained 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas in a medium pot. Add enough water to cover the chickpeas by 1½ inches. Stir in ½ teaspoon baking soda.

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer the chickpeas for 20 minutes, until they are very soft, some skins float to the surface, and a few chickpeas begin to break down.

While the chickpeas cook, peel and finely mince (or grate) the 1 large clove garlic. Put the minced garlic in a small bowl and stir in ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice. Let the garlic and lemon sit for 10 minutes to mellow.

After simmering, drain the chickpeas into a colander. Rinse them briefly with warm water, swishing them with your hand to remove any tinny taste. Pour off and discard the rinse water and any loose skins.

Set aside 1 tablespoon of the most intact whole chickpeas for garnish, if you like. Immediately transfer the remaining warm chickpeas to a food processor or high-speed blender. There is no need to remove the remaining skins.

Strain the lemon/garlic mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into the food processor, pressing the solids with the back of a spoon to extract the liquid. (If you prefer a stronger raw garlic flavor, you may skip straining and add the mixture directly.) Add 1 teaspoon kosher salt.

Process the chickpeas for at least 1 full minute, stopping to scrape down the sides as needed, until the mixture is as smooth as you can get it at this stage.

Add ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons tahini and the 2 ice cubes to the processor. Blend until very smooth and creamy, scraping down the bowl as needed.

With the processor running, add 3 to 5 tablespoons ice water, starting with 3 tablespoons and adding up to 2 more tablespoons 1 tablespoon at a time, until the hummus reaches a thick-yogurt consistency you like.

Taste and adjust seasoning with additional kosher salt and/or more lemon juice to taste.

Transfer the hummus to a serving plate. Use the back of a spoon to make a shallow well in the center. Drizzle a big drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil over the hummus.

Place the reserved chickpea(s) in the well, then finish with a sprinkle of ground paprika or sumac and a sprinkle of zaatar to taste.